A Gatewood company - serving Arlington, TX

LiftMaster Welding & Fabrication Nationwide | Gatewood Fence & Gate

Every visit starts with

Free on-site gate assessment - hinges, posts, and your LiftMaster or Nice gate operator checked before anything is quoted

The assessment is free and the quote is the invoice.

Styles & brands we work with

Wrought iron
Wrought iron
Wood & steel frame
Wood & steel frame
Farm & ranch
Farm & ranch
Sliding driveway gates
Sliding driveway gates
LiftMaster operators
LiftMaster operators

Before & after – our own jobs

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Recent Project
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Full Restoration
Before - Complete UpgradeBeforeAfter - Complete UpgradeAfter
Complete Upgrade

LiftMaster Welding & Fabrication: The Arlington Owner’s Guide

We weld and fabricate LiftMaster gate components in Arlington for $185-$520 installed, depending on what’s broken and how much steel needs replacing. Most welding jobs on LiftMaster gates run $240-$380 and we can usually get to you same day or next morning. The way most Arlington owners find out they need us is the same story we’ve heard since 2001: the gate started dragging on one corner, or the weld at the bottom hinge finally let go, and now the whole thing leans like it’s had a long night.

Call (817) 241-4067

Here’s what matters if you’re standing in your driveway right now looking at a broken LiftMaster gate: the steel doesn’t fail quietly. It tells you first. That creak you’ve been ignoring for six months? That was the warning. The good news is we fix it in place, on your property, without hauling anything off on a trailer. Hal Gatewood has been welding gates around Arlington since before half these subdivisions had streetlights, and there’s not much we haven’t seen rusting behind somebody’s shrubs.

Which LiftMaster Models This Applies To

We weld and fabricate parts for every LiftMaster gate opener we service in Arlington, but the fabrication side applies mostly to the physical gate structure those openers are pushing. That means LiftMaster LA400, LA500, and CSL24 slide gate setups, plus the swing gate configurations that use LiftMaster swing arms bolted to heavy steel posts. The opener itself is rarely the welding project. What breaks is what the opener is attached to: the hinge plates, the post brackets, the receiver plates, the gate frame itself.

Here’s the gotcha most Arlington owners don’t know: LiftMaster doesn’t make the gate frame. They make the opener that moves it. So when a weld fails, you’re not looking for a LiftMaster part number, you’re looking for somebody who can match the steel thickness and post configuration to the opener’s throw and duty cycle. A LA500 on a commercial Arlington property pushes a much heavier gate than a LA400 on a residential lot off Park Row. If the weld was underbuilt for the opener’s torque, it’ll fail again in eighteen months no matter how pretty the bead looked. We build it to match what the opener actually does, not just what the old part looked like. We can tell you whether a quality aftermarket bracket makes sense or whether this is one of those spots where OEM spec steel matters. Usually, the answer is good American steel either way, but we’ll show you the difference before we cut anything.

Signs Your LiftMaster Welding & Fabrication Is Failing

  • The gate leans toward the latch side when it’s open. The hinge post has usually shifted or the lower hinge weld has started to crack. In Arlington’s clay soil, posts move more than people think, especially after a wet spring. The gate didn’t bend – the post did – and the weld is the victim, not the cause.
  • You hear a squeal when the gate moves, and it’s not the opener. That’s steel rubbing on steel where a weld has cracked enough to let the joint flex. Every time the gate cycles, it works the crack a little wider. The squeal is the sound of the crack growing.
  • The bottom corner drags on the driveway when the gate swings. When a hinge weld fails, the gate drops. Your opener keeps pushing, and now the frame is grinding concrete. Fix it before the frame itself twists out of square, or you’ll be paying for a full gate rebuild instead of a hinge repair.
  • The opener struggles and stops mid-cycle, but it used to run fine. A failing weld makes the gate heavier to move because the frame is no longer transferring load cleanly. The opener is working against a binding joint. Replacing the opener without fixing the weld means you’ll burn out the new opener too.
  • Rust blooms around a weld joint, even if the rest of the gate looks fine. Water got into the weld’s heat-affected zone, and now it’s corroding from inside the steel. It may look like surface rust from the outside. It’s not. That weld is thinning underneath, and one good push from the opener will snap it.

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

For Arlington LiftMaster gate welding and fabrication work, here’s the straight pricing we quote before we start, and nothing changes between the quote and the invoice:

  • Hinge plate re-weld (per hinge): $185-$260
  • Post bracket replacement, fabricated on site: $220-$340
  • Gate frame crack repair (straightening plus welding): $240-$390
  • Full hinge replacement with custom-fabricated plates: $310-$520

The range depends on steel thickness, how much of the old weld needs grinding out, and whether the gate has to be jacked back into square before we lay a bead. Every quote includes all labor, all steel, all grinding, and cleanup. It’s the price we agree on before the welder comes off the truck. If you’re a senior or veteran, take 10% off any of those numbers. That’s permanent, not a promotion. Every job carries our 90-Day Done Right Promise in writing: if it’s not done right, we make it right, one call and we’re back on it.

DIY or Call Us?

You can safely check a few things yourself: run your finger along the hinge welds (the gate off, please) and look for hairline cracks or rust weeping from the joint. Look at the post. If it’s leaning even a half-inch, the problem is the post, not just the weld. Take notes and call us with what you see – that actually helps us bring the right steel the first trip.

What we don’t recommend is breaking out a flux-core welder from the big box store and laying a bead over a cracked hinge. Welding a gate that’s still carrying tension, on a post that’s moved, without jigging it square first means the repair fails the same way the original did, just faster. And if you’re welding near the opener’s housing or the wire run, you can cook a control board with stray current if you don’t know what you’re grounding against. This is the spot where a $200 repair becomes an $800 opener replacement. We’re at (817) 241-4067. Hal will talk through what you found and tell you straight whether it’s a job for us or a simple adjustment you can do with a wrench. Just give me a call – I’ll pick up.

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